Mosque of the Janissaries

With more time for painting, one of my favourite subjects  was the 'Mosque of the Janissaries' (orKucjk Hassan Mosque ) on Chania harbourfront - the oldest Ottoman building in Crete. From the guide book:" Here the Christian-born slaves of the Ottoman Empire worshipped , although little did it improve their character; not only did they terrorize the Greeks , but in 1690 they murdered the Pasha of Chania and fed his body to the dogs". It's currently an art exhibition space.....

I had my own troubles to deal with : I'd started sketching from a bench and then  a string of horse and carriages parked themselves right in front of my view - I had to peer round and hope that some tourists would turn up for a ride.

I had a better vantage point on another day - in a rooftop cafe with a grandstand view. At the table next to us was an art  tutor from a local college and 2 of her students. They  made a much better job of the perspective but the tutor was very kind about my colours - a rather enhanced version of the  faded pinks. A lovely spot for a fresh orange juice or Greek coffee with the background clatter of backgammon.

Cretan Textiles and Stitch

 A visit to 'Roka' at 61 Zambeliou where traditional rugs and sakouli (sort of woven rucksack) are handmade on a 17th century loom. Lovely old examples and an evocative smell of wool

 Then in the Folklore museum examples of costumes, lace, weaving and embroidery as well as domestic and agricultural collections in an idiosyncratic setting. In the workshop 2 venerable electric sewing machines were set up - reproducing old embroidery for sale (above) and showing embroidered pictures by Asposia Bitaki in different stages of progress. There were no completed pieces on show but a book has been published - delightful 'naive' designs of local customs and village life depicted in very dense free machine embroidery.

A different type of stitch - a sample of how wooden planks and rods were tied together with rope in the life size scientific reconstruction of a an ancient Minoan boat  at the Maritime Museum . Not just a model - it was sailed  from Chania to Pireus and took part in the 2004 Olympics.

Cretan Crumbly Doors

Lots of crumbly doors to choose from - a wider variety than I've encountered elsewhere. From basic rustic to positively palatial , all equally charming -in  Chania many of the Venetian and Turkish style houses and mansions remain un-restored after bombing in WWII

Tsikoudia

Tsikoudia (or Raki) is an eau de vie made from grape skins and seeds in mountain still such as the one above. This  moonshine/firewater is synonymous with hospitality , offered after meals, as 'welcome drinks' in shot glasses ( my favourite being a dolls hous beer glass with handle) . Never managed to down it in one

 Note the 'brown wine' - only Ian and I appreciated it's sherry like nature which complimented food well , although some were too acidic for me - luckily could usually order a half bottle of something better while Ian polished off the 'half -kilo ' on his own.

Raki is mostly clear( this one was coloured if not flavoured by fruit) , the most palatable was with honey, cinnamon and cloves. Yammas!!!

Sunday Outing to the South Coast

A Sunday coach trip acroos the white mountains from Chania to Sougia with amazing scenery along the way. My ankle still being dodgy, didn't go on the walk along the coastal path to Lissos but found several good painting locations ( I've done more watercolours than on any other holiday - subject of a post on my return) . Ian made himself comfortable reaing his book on the Trojan wars perched on an old gun. This whole area of Crete is where soldiers were evacuated from  in WW11, What looked like rain cluds descending was actually dust storms from Africa. Quite pertinent as we've been hearing lots of jet fighters overheda destined for Libya.

 On the way back we stopped off at the Omalos plateau , parrtly to look at the start of the infamous Samaria Gorge but mainly to look at the flowers- beacuse of unseasonal rain it's the best year for  a long time.

 There were field of Tulipa cretica - the endemic Tulip besides orchid like yellow Orchis provincalis.

 Being May Day there were locals everywhere gathering greens (horta) and picnicing and there were wreaths of wild flowers on many doors on our return.

Knossos

 We decided to go to Knossos after all - although the bus journeys were long ( and the buses stopped everywhere) there were spectacular views of the snow-capped White Mountains on our return

 While mainly reconstructions, the site does give a vivid picture of what it may have looked like - reminds me of an architectural model with cutouts

 And there were some splendid big pots!!

A lot more areas were closed off than 20 years ago when I last visited - presuure of visitors I guess, it's the second most visited site in Greece after the Acropolis.

Highlights of Chania Archeological Museum

We both loved this ceramic pull along toy from 3500BC

 Some covetable jewelery

 A few amphorae

Amazing decoration on clay coffins

Lots of bird headed women -"interpretation is difficult"

Unlikely to get to Knossos as organised  tours have not yet started and it would be 5 hrs+  return by public transport so making the most of being in Chania while my ankle mends.